Course
Australian-produced restoration training built for Southern-Hemisphere conditions.
A CARSI-issued credential — not an IICRC certification. CARSI is an IICRC CEC Accredited provider. IICRC certification is obtained through a school and examination approved by the IICRC. Verify a credential.
Instructor CARSI Catalog
Free
No cost
1h
Duration
—
CEC hours
24/7
Online access
Trusted by cleaning and restoration teams across Australia
About this course
This course aims to provide a basic but comprehensive understanding of the risks and techniques involved in the restoration of antique and delicate furniture exposed to moisture and environmental fluctuations.
Covering material integrity challenges like bonding damage, fungal colonisation, and chemical degradation, it also includes handling precautions, cleaning methods, and restorative techniques.
With a focus on maintaining authenticity, the course emphasises meticulous procedures for preserving historical value, ensuring safe handling, and documenting provenance to uphold both aesthetic and market value.
Outcomes
01
Apply current Australian and New Zealand methods to real-world restoration jobs
02
Build competency in training the IICRC does not offer locally — a CARSI-issued credential, not an IICRC certification
03
Receive a verifiable digital credential for your professional portfolio
Syllabus
8 modules · 8 lessons · 1
01
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Free lesson
No account needed
When you walk into a water loss and spot antique furniture or fine furnishings, your first instinct might be to get drying equipment running as fast as possible. Slow down. The same urgency that saves modern flat-pack cabinetry can destroy a hand-crafted piece that has been holding itself together for a century. The core risk is this: aged glued joints and composite laminates have already been weakened by prolonged moisture exposure. The adhesive has softened, the timber has swollen, and the whole assembly is under stress. If you then blast it with aggressive drying, the rapid shrinkage creates shear forces across those joints that the deteriorated bond simply cannot absorb. You end up with a piece that was survivable when wet but falls apart during drying. Before you position a single air mover, assess every joint, every laminate edge, and every veneered surface. Press gently along seams. If you feel movement or hear a faint creak, that joint is already compromised. Document it with photos before you touch anything else.
Dimensional change is the next thing to get your head around. Solid timber, particularly in ornate antique pieces, has internal grain tensions that have been in equilibrium for decades. Humidity fluctuations beyond what the timber can tolerate cause uneven shrinkage, and when one face of a piece dries faster than the other, warping follows. On a handcrafted accent table or a carved panel, that warp is often irreversible because the artisan worked the timber to specific tolerances that modern adhesives and fillers cannot replicate. The practical response is to control the drying environment rather than maximise airflow. Keep relative humidity reduction gradual. If you are using a dehumidifier in the room, position it to maintain a stable, moderate humidity rather than driving conditions to bone dry as quickly as possible. A good rule of thumb is to think about the piece, not the room. The room drying target and the furniture drying target are not the same number.
Fungal colonisation is a risk that catches technicians out because it hides. Fine wooden filigreed corners, carved recesses, and decorative inlays create sheltered pockets where moisture sits and warmth accumulates. By the time you can see biological growth, digestion of the lignocellulosic material is already underway, and the structural density of the timber in that area has been reduced. If you discover this mid-job, stop and reassess the scope. A common scenario: you are three days into drying a dining room and the assessor calls asking why you have not released the equipment yet. You tell them, "I have found active biological growth in the carved base of the sideboard. If we proceed without addressing this, we will be reinstalling a piece that looks intact but has compromised structural integrity underneath, and that will not be visible until it fails." That is a conversation worth having early and in writing, because remediation at that point changes the scope, the timeline, and the cost.
Chemical degradation from floodwater is the fourth risk, and it is one where your pre-cleaning documentation is everything. Floodwater contamination varies enormously. Alkaline residues from certain sources can etch ornamental metallic finishes and hardware. Dye leachate from saturated upholstery or adjacent materials can migrate into timber and alter colour in ways that are very difficult to reverse. Pigment disruption in painted or lacquered surfaces may not be obvious until you start cleaning, at which point the cleaning process itself can strip fragile patination that the original artisan intended to be there. Before you apply any cleaning agent to a fine furnishing, photograph the piece in detail under good lighting, note the existing finish condition, and if possible get written confirmation from the owner or insurer about the pre-loss appearance. A customer standing in the doorway saying "that patina on the brass handles has always been there, please do not touch it" is telling you something important. Listen to it, record it, and factor it into your method before you pick up a cloth.
Who it is for
Enrol
Complete the course and receive a verifiable digital credential for your portfolio.